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Trip Report: The Juggernaut & Peeler Pillar

In From the Range of Light & Fast, Trip Reports by Howie SchwartzLeave a Comment

Whosoever touches this gem shall possess the power of the Crimson Bands of Cyttorak! Henceforth, you who read these words, shall become forevermore a human juggernaut! With respect to alpine rock climbing, the Sierra Nevada gets more and more amazing every year. Perhaps nowhere more so than the Sawtooth Range. In 1970, a grade V 5.8 A3 route was completed on a prominent pinnacle on the northeast ridge of Eocene Peak. With its unusual scale and attitude, the wall came …

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Alpine Conditions Report – July 8, 2015

In Conditions Reports, From the Range of Light & Fast, High Sierra Alpine Report by Howie Schwartz5 Comments

Hi Sierra Nevada aficionados and enthusiasts, Quick update to our last report on July 1, as things in the high country are changing quite rapidly. As we have been reporting, the Sierra remains in a steady stream of daily thunderstorm activity from monsoonal air flow and warm, moist air rising that condenses clouds, resulting in precipitation and electrical activity. Precipitation has been in the form of intense short or, in some cases, up to a couple sustained hours of rain …

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Alpine Conditions Report – July 1, 2015

In Conditions Reports, From the Range of Light & Fast, High Sierra Alpine Report by Howie Schwartz4 Comments

Howdy mountaineers and high country enthusiasts, Hope you are all enjoying summer at this point. We are! After the driest winter on record, the High Sierra experienced one of the wettest calendar months ever. The town of Bishop hit May records for amount of rainfall and consecutive days with precipitation. In June, mountain weather has remained somewhat unusual with daily high temperatures spanning more than 30 degrees F in many locations. In Bishop, 17 days have hit highs in the …

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Alpine Conditions Report – May 8, 2015

In Conditions Reports, From the Range of Light & Fast, High Sierra Alpine Report, Uncategorized by Howie Schwartz2 Comments

Crazy year. After the biggest drought on record in California, we enter late spring with a series of storms, the last two of which are the biggest of the year to date. This weather is wackbards! It’s supposed to be high and dry in the summer/fall and stormy in the winter/spring. That’s what all of us high mountain lovers have come to expect and appreciate. The situation is out of sync, like a mountain guide trying to dance to 90’s …

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Diversify!

In From the Range of Light & Fast, Guide Tips by Jediah PorterLeave a Comment

We are not parents, we’re mountain guides. Well, some of us are parents, but that’s not the point. Point is, we’re not your parents. Because we’re not parents, we can choose favorites. It’s true; we have our favorite guests. Our favorite guests don’t have any certain level of skill. Nor do they have any particular personality attribute. Nor do they come out with us any certain amount of time. The thing that unites our list of favorite guests is the …

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Trip Report – Red Rock, Nevada | November 2014

In From the Range of Light & Fast, Trip Reports by Howie SchwartzLeave a Comment

It’s only “Snow-vember” in the High Sierra shade right now. Thanks to high pressure and record warm temps, the high sunny places have felt more like “Rocktober.” Down in the desert, the conditions have been as dreamy and perfect in both sun and shade as they can be this time of year. With the assistance of our friends at Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, their guest guiding program and one of their top local guides, Josh Janes, we commenced our semiannual (spring …

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Trip Report – Mount Whitney, Mountaineer’s Trout – August 18-20, 2014

In From the Range of Light & Fast, Trip Reports by Howie SchwartzLeave a Comment

Thanks to Steve from Atlanta, GA for great company and a hard-earned summit of Mount Whitney from the more adventurous side. This was like no hike or climb he had ever experienced and he did a great job. Besides the amazing sunrise and the perfect weather, a highlight was catching a decent sized trout from Upper Boy Scout lake with one cast of a fly. Here’s to more mountain experiences in the future together with Steve!

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Wounded Warriors 2014!

In From the Range of Light & Fast, Trip Reports by Neil Satterfield1 Comment

For more than five  years now we have had the privilege of donating a day of climbing to the Wounded Warriors program.  ESDS (Eastern Sierra Disable Sports) has a spring program for the Wounded Warriors that provides incredible mountain opportunities for disabled veterans and their families. For a week each spring guests participate in a myriad of mountain activities.  There is fishing, boating, kayaking, hand biking, hiking, camping, climbing, and much, much more.  ESDS has built this program into a …

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Frogland (III, 5.8+)

In From the Range of Light & Fast, Trip Reports by Howie SchwartzLeave a Comment

This spring Alex Stepanek and I reconnoitered in Las Vegas for a couple days of rock climbing in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area on some super classics that he had always wanted to do. One of these was Frogland. If you like POV footage (and who doesn’t?), if you want to get a sense of what the route is like, and if you want to listen to some groovy music, check out his final cut just released here: Thanks …

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Rendezvous in Red Rock – March 28-29, 2014

In From the Range of Light & Fast, Trip Reports by Howie Schwartz1 Comment

Not to be confused with the Red Rock Rendezvous, the mass gathering of climbers and gear manufacturers which happened to be going on the same March weekend, Alex Stepanek and I went ready to get up early and beat the crowds onto some of the most classic routes in Red Rock. In 2 days we logged about 20 pitches of rock climbing, none of which were short of excellent. Great days with a great partner and looking forward to more …