Guided Trips to the Sierra Nevada & Worldwide!
An alpine guide hard at work during a course.

AMGA Contract Alpine Guides Course

The Alpine Guides Course provides the foundation needed to work towards becoming a Certified Alpine Guide. With an in-depth, hands-on approach to the mechanics of guiding on alpine terrain, we teach technical guiding skills during a number of alpine ascents and evaluate all of the different basic components of and strategies for alpine guiding; from belay systems to risk management and client care. The 10-day course introduces all the skills that a proficient guide might draw upon while leading an alpine climb anywhere between Mt. Washington's Pinnacle Gully and Mt. Whitney's East Face.

What is taught in the Alpine Guide Course?

In the alpine environment, efficient travel through moderate but exposed 3rd and 4th class terrain often presents the greatest challenge to the guide. Great emphasis is placed on short-rope and short-pitch techniques, both on snow and rock. Other elements that receive attention include route finding, techniques for protecting and traveling with multiple clients, track setting in snow, strategies for rappelling and lowering clients, navigation skills, belaying on snow and ice, and strategies for transitioning between different guiding systems. While this course is not necessarily taught on glaciers, some

glacier travel skills and crevasses rescue for guides will also be covered.

 

The following skill areas will be presented by the course instructors:
• macro and micro route-finding skills
• evaluating anchor construction as it relates to guiding
• choosing appropriate belay methods for rock and snow
• efficiently organizing belay stances for multiple clients
• descending with clients
• escaping belays
• traveling with improved safety in third-and fourth-class terrain
• how to prepare and orient clients
• selection and use of appropriate equipment
• guides anchors in rock, snow, and ice.
• managing time and pace
• communicating with and managing a group
• performing improvised small-team rescues
• improvised ascending methods
• raises, lowers, and rappelling with clients
• how to evaluate safety and aggressiveness in your own guiding

Trip Itinerary | Prerequisites | Additional Information

Book a Guided Trip

TRIP ITINERARY: AMGA Contract  Alpine Guides Course

A detailed itinerary will be mailed to you once you have signed up.

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Prerequisites:

The following prerequisites are outlined to help you choose the course that is right for your skill and experience level. Because rock guiding techniques are the foundation of alpine guiding, for those less familiar with these skills we recommend that participants first enroll in the Rock Instructor Course. The Alpine Guide Course covers these critical skills only as a very brief review. The prerequisites are presented as minimum requirements. The role of this list is to ensure that all course participants possess the climbing ability and background needed to fully participate in all aspects of the course without endangering or limiting other participants. It is recommended that you contact the AMGA office and/or the Alpine Coordinator if you have questions about which course you should take.

You may enroll in the Alpine Guide Course if you meet the following prerequisites :

  • You are a current Associate Member or higher of the AMGA

  • Have at least five years of alpine climbing experience

  • Provide a personal climbing resume of at least 35 climbs, showing each of the following:
    a) that you have led at least 30 different alpine climbs, with experience in at least two different
    areas (e.g. the Cascades and Alaska). This should include 4 different alpine rock
    climbs rated 5.7 or harder and 4 different alpine technical snow, ice or mixed climbs
    60 degrees or steeper;
    b) that you can safely and comfortably lead, in rock shoes, crack and face climbs rated 5.9 at
    the time of the course;
    c) that you can safely and comfortably lead, in stiff mountaineering boots, crack and face
    climbs rated 5.6 at the time of the course;
    d) that you have led at least 10 different ice climbs rated WI 4 or harder.
    e) you are able to comfortably employ French crampon techniques on 40 degree hard, frozen
    snow in ascent and descent.

  • You are at least age 18.

     

Additional Information
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Recommended Reading:

Alpine Climbing: Techniques to take you Higher!

Ice and Mixed Climbing- Will Gadd

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TRIP DETAILS

2009 Dates:

June 5-14, 2009

Trip Length:
10 day
s

Ratio:

3 to 1

Cost:
Please contact the AMGA

Recommended Prior Courses:
AMGA Rock Instructor Course

Recommended Follow-up SMG Courses:
Advanced Alpine Guide Course