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Diversify!

In From the Range of Light & Fast, Guide Tips by Jediah PorterLeave a Comment

We are not parents, we’re mountain guides. Well, some of us are parents, but that’s not the point. Point is, we’re not your parents. Because we’re not parents, we can choose favorites. It’s true; we have our favorite guests. Our favorite guests don’t have any certain level of skill. Nor do they have any particular personality attribute. Nor do they come out with us any certain amount of time. The thing that unites our list of favorite guests is the …

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Palisades! August 1-4, 2014

In From the Range of Light & Fast by Jediah Porter2 Comments

“It is ordained that three dry round grains of barley make an inch, 12 inches make a foot, [and] three feet make a yard.” -AD 1303. Henry III in the “Composition of Yards and Perches“ And 14,000 feet make a significant mountaineering challenge. As your “Guides to the Sierra Mountain(s)” we are forever reaching further and further into the corners of the world’s greatest mountain range. We are on an undying quest to find the best of the best and the …

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Packing for a Multi-day Ridge Traverse

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reposted from January 2014 By IFMGA Mountain Guide, Jed Porter So, something about a multi-day ridge traverse has captured your attention. Maybe it’s a 2-day itinerary on Lone Pine Peak, the 4 day version of the Palisade Traverse, or something bigger and further out there. In any case, you want to cover some ground and be ready for technical climbing. You will spend cool nights at altitude, burn lots of calories, and carry all of your gear the entire time. …

Summery Summary, Part 3: "Listers"

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Jed’s final post of the summer.  After one more Palisades trip he’ll head to Washington for an AMGA exam.  He’ll be back in October:  Bring on couloirs and rock climbing! Forgive me, but I like to find themes that unify chunks of time in my memory.  My summer, 2012 has been easily divisible by 4: Part 1- Sweet sending.  Part 2- Big traversing.  Part 3- Family time.  Finally, this latter portion of my personal summer, has been chock-full of peak-bagging …

Summery Summary, Part 2: Family Time!

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More ramblings from Jed… Man, keep this guy in the mountains.  He just won’t shut up when he’s in town. Some things come in binges!  In June it was sweet alpine sending action.  Mid-July brought a ton of traversing.  Now, since that Evolution Traverse, my guiding world has revolved around the theme of family time. First, and connecting the summer with a welcome continuity, is the ever-more popular and polished “Scramblers” program.  Barbara and Neil have worked together to set …

Evolution Traverse, July 2012

In Trip Reports by Jediah Porter2 Comments

“When will I stop doing the hardest thing I have ever done?”  Jon A., July 2012, high in the Evolution Peaks. The Evolution Traverse (VI 5.9) as seen from its final peak. That is a great question for any of us!  What ever possesses us to do these things?  Needless to say, Jon does not shirk from challenge.  We have already expounded on his prodigious apetite for facing big endeavors with a hard-core work ethic and tough-to-the-soul grit.  Jon’s self-awareness, the detachment …

Summery Summary, Part 1

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SMG guide Jed Porter expounds on his diverse guiding experiences from Summer 2012 to date. Enjoy! How do you measure Summer?  Someone once decided that the longest day of the year marks the start of summer.  Summer partiers count July 4 as their kickoff.  Sierra climbers watch the snow-line retreat and mix in a little consideration to the monsoonal thunderstorm forecast and come up with their own definition entirely.  By the latter algorithm, we’ve already had a couple months of summer up …

Palisades Traverse, June 2012

In Trip Reports by Jediah Porter1 Comment

Jon asked the typical questions.  “How many times have you done the Palisade Traverse?”  “Does it ever get boring?”  The first question does not have a ready answer, which is the reason that the second does.  First of all, it never gets boring in the Palisades.  That is because it is never the same twice.  I have indeed spent a lot of time on the ridge-crest between Thunderbolt and Sill.  Guiding and personal trips have had me up there linking …

Mammoth to June, April 2012

In Trip Reports by Jediah Porter1 Comment

Carl and Glen on the effortless, yet unrelenting, climb from Minaret Vista Adventure is where you find it, spring has sprung, and skiing is more than snow;  a trip this past weekend connecting Mammoth and June via the ultra classic San Joaquin ridge proved all these maxims. Carl has been telemark skiing since the year I was born.  Glenn recently launched two young adult offspring and is returning to beloved mountains, this time on skis.  I had “lost touch” with …

Mt. Whitney Winter

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Indulge me a bit here, if you will.  Usually I try and post SMG trip reports here from the guests’ perspective.  What made this trip special for him or her?  What did he or she bring to the trip that made it so enjoyable?  How did he or she rise to the challenges our beautiful Sierra offer? Believe me, Jason had an excellent time on Whitney, going above and beyond his own expectations.  An early January Whitney summit is a …

Fall in the Eastern Sierra: Crystral Crag, North Peak’s N. Couloir, Pine Creek, & SE Face of Emerson

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On the sunlit edge of Crystal Crag’s North Arete. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, in the mountains it’s all about flexibility.  Seems that’s the theme of my entries here.  “We were greatly rewarded by the flexibility of so and so… blah blah blah.”  But really, it makes a huge difference!  Ask not “how do I climb this mountain?”.  Rather, ask, “what’s the coolest thing to do right now?”  Billy came up for 4 days asking exactly …

Tulainyo Lake

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Negotiating the Ebersbacher Ledges in uncharacteristically cloudy conditions  The mountains draw all kinds of people on all kinds of missions.  Sean started calling and brainstorming with us months and months ago.  He has an avid and personal interest in history, especially when it comes to Owens Valley and water.  Sean educated us all on his family history, the history of water-rights and access advocacy in Owens Valley communities and how these things align.  In the spirit of Father John Crowley, …