Surmounting the crux pitch of the East Buttress route, with Iceberg Lake down below.

Mt. Whitney (14,496 ft.)
East Face - III, 5.6+
East Buttress - III, 5.7
Mt. Whitney is the highest peak in the lower 48, and one of the most sought after. Almost named “Fisherman’s Peak” Mt. Whitney was first climbed in 1873 by the “fishermen”; John Lucas, Charles Begole and Albert H. Johnson.  The local Paiute Indians, named Mt. Whitney Too-man-go-yah- (the very old man) and as legend has it a Great Spirit lives inside the mountain and watches over the people from his high perch.  People of all ability levels flock to stand on its broad summit.  The overwhelming majorities stumble to the top via the Mount Whitney Trail.  In the summer months it is not uncommon to have several hundred bleary-eyed people talking on cell phones and watching TV on the summit. From the East the peak is much quieter and looks much more impressive guarded by its sheer granite walls. Sierra Mountain Guides offers trips on several different east side routes including the Mountaineers route, the East Face, and the East Buttress.

East Face
The East Face route is one of the 50 Classic Climbs in North America.  You’ll be blown away by the, “The Fresh Air Traverse”, which as its name implies adds exciting exposure to the climb. Dr. Robert Underhill, a member of the first party to climb the route in 1931 exclaimed, “The beauty of the climb in general lies chiefly in its unexpected possibility, up the apparent precipice, and in the intimate contact it affords with the features that lend Mt. Whitney its real impressiveness.”

East Buttress

The East Buttress is only slightly more difficult and sustained than the East Face. It was originally named the “Sunshine Peewee” route by the first accent party. This route represents the cleanest, most direct line from high camp to summit. It features high-quality climbing on good granite up the buttress to the “Peewee Pillar”, a gigantic block precariously perched on the buttress. The route continues around the pillar for a few more perfect crack pitches to the summit.

Trip Itinerary | Prerequisites | Additional Information