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Old Updates:
Feb 16, 2010- We are pleased to finally have an ice report up and running. Thanks to those of you who called or e-mailed anyway. It makes us realize how important this report is to you and we love that. Choinard walll is a little wet as we've been having unusually warm temps. This weekend calls for a little snow in the canyon so be careful for potentially weird ice conditions. An accident occured above Choinard Falls several days ago due to an ice dam breaking and washing a climber off with it. Be sure to listen for running water and please stay roped up during warm or unusual conditions. Main wall is in better shape and provides nice, albeit, steeper climbing oppotunities. As always, we appreciate your reports and photos when you head out there. Be safe!
February 3, 2010- Howdy fellow ice enthusiasts! Our sincerest appologies for slacking on the ice report. Want to hear our excuses? Our office manager has been dealing with a torn ACL, we've been up to our necks with avy courses, and our ice guy is in Ouray (blame him!). Here is what we do know: The road is plowed and in good condition. We have been having consistently cold temps which should result in great conditions out there. Please- if you have been climbing- send us photos. Scratch our back and we'll scratch yours! Be safe out there and have a great time!
March 26, 2009- Well folks, I'd say ice season is wrapping up. Our ice courses are over, the days are warming, and we saw a local and very prominant ice climber skiing recently. Having said that, we recently heard a report from a couple of days ago that sounds favorable for the Lee Vining area. Chouinard is still filled in well and the ice is climbing nicely. This is a good time of year to head to the canyon early and leave before the sun hits chouinard falls in the afternoon. Dave will be heading out to both June and Lee Vining tomorrow so we'll be sure to get your updated again on Monday. Be safe out there!
March 8, 2009-
Poole road was plowed and muddy. Main Wall and Chouinard are still filled in nicely. Big temperature differences from morning to afternoon right now. Brittle ice mixed with snow in the morning, and softening up in the afternoon. On another note: please be respectful to your fellow ice climbers. The weekends have been very crowded recently and crowds can lead to very dangerous conditions. It is unsafe to climb above other parties, or to set up below parties that are already climbing. Your belayer should not be set up directly under the leader. Please be respectful not only of your fellow climbers wishes in this matter but also be respectful of the ice- this is a dangerous sport, there is no need to make it more dangerous.
Feb 24, 2009- Poole road is plowed but muddy. A timid driver would probably need 4WD but snow tires would probably work too. Main wall is totally filled in including Frosty's. Chouinard is the same, a little brittle currently but all filled in. The top left of Chouinard is receiving a little sunlight at around 3 pm. Spiral Staircase is thin but in!
Feb 14-15, 2009- The road was plowed as of the 15th but we got a big dump on the 16th. The approach was packed down good over the weekend but may need snowshoes after this last dumper. Chouinard Falls is the same. Main wall keeps filling in. See detail below:
February 11, 2009- Lee Vining Canyon has gotten a lot of snow in this last storm and though the ice hasn't changed, the approach sure has. Currently, snow shoes or skis are absolutely required to get into the canyon. Waist deep post-holing is the alternative! Obviously, the start to the climbs are a lot snowier, so a bit of grovelling is required too. The good news though is that winter is here and the Poole Power Plant road is plowed (though it is still very slippery and requires 4WD). A large group will be there for the next two days so lets hope they stomp down the approach a bit for the rest of us this weekend!
June-uary 8, 2009- Hey ice climbers! Unfortunatley, things are heating up a bit here on the eastside. Not to worry though, the warm temps during the day and freezing temps at night could make for good ice climbing conditions. The lack of precipitation is good too since layers of snow aren't freezing into the ice. The ice was drippy wet by 8:30 yesterday morning, so definately bring that Gore-Tex jacket and maybe some goggles too!
December 24, 2008
Amazing what a little weather will do to the ice overnight. Unlike yesterday, the ice in LVC was sticky and wet with a slight warming of temps and a much more pleasant day on the ice. Still, you have to want it right now. There were only 4 teams of core ice climbers willing to make the approach over the snow-covered talus today, and among them were SMG climbers Dave and Mary R. and their grandson(!) Ryan. Yes, after watching Mary set the bar on Chouinard Falls we now have a new slogan, "Climb like a grandma!"
In LVC, the Main Wall still needs some time, unless you like the thin, scary runout stuff. Chouinard Falls is climbing great on most routes left of the Tree Line. Due to very cold temps recently and limited snowfall there are some nice easy ice climbs on the North side and head of the canyon for your climbing pleasure and there is a nice East facing flow behind the power plant if you want to wallow the approach. It is early season conditions out there so use caution on all routes and approaches. In June Lake, Horsetail Falls is shaping up but still flowing with water. A local climber recently got hit with ice while standing at the base and reportedly got knocked over and broke her hand. Horsetail Falls has a lot of force and takes some sustained freezing to form thick. In early and late season climbing there can be a roll of the dice. We are not yet guiding there- but quite soon I imagine with the continued cold weather forecast. Enjoy! - Howie
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