This report of ice conditions is for ice climbs in the Sierra. We will report on conditions as we see them, or as we get reports from our friends. Be aware though that ice conditions can change rapidly with changing weather conditions. Be aware and knowledgeable of factors leading to stable snow and ice, and perceptive enough to back off in poor conditions. Visit the Eastern Sierra Avalanche Center website for the latest backcountry avalanche advisory. Be safe and enjoy the climbing!!
January 26, 2012
January 18, 2012
Roadside Crag: The right side is thick enough to lead and take screws (WI3). Most of the left side looked too thin for screw placements. -Jay
January 2, 2012
Happy New Year! Well Eastern Sierra ice climbers, December 2011 was an unforgettable month. The end of the year left us with < 6" of snow at Mammoth Mountain. Quite a contrast to the record December of 2010 that finished the year with almost 40"! At this time most of the mountain roads are open just like they are in August. Mountain and ice climbing access has not been this easy since 1987. So get out there and enjoy while it lasts, which looks to be at least for another couple weeks at this point.
Chouinard Falls and the ice at the top of Lee Vining Canyon are in good nick. There is all kinds of low angle adventure ice climbing to be had on the lower flanks of Carson Peak. Parker and Lundy are great and still relatively easy to access. Perhaps the highlight has been the normally very remote and/or ephemeral ice climbs in Yosemite National Park. People have been accessing the many alpine snow and ice climbs left over from fall as well. The word of caution is that along with a lack of precip, these high pressure ridges can often bring warmth and we have been seeing ice drop and rot on the warmer days. Go early and check the weather for cooler wintery days for the safest and best climbing conditions. Enjoy and hope to see you out there!
December 23 , 2011
December 20 , 2011-
Lee Vining Canyon still climbing well, and forming nicely. Left side of Chouinard Falls is a bit thin. An unusual cave has formed in the center. Cool. Main wall still thin. Some ice on B-H but not enough to even get hopeful about. June Lake ice is out on the falls and Roadside, but the Carson Peak goulottes and ravines are looking great. Great ice in Parker Canyon and Lundy Canyon right now, and Tuolumne is in great shape with an open Hwy 120. Great start to the ice season for sure!
Climbing Silver Lake Ice
North Pole Ice
December 12 , 2011- SMG Blog for Parker Canyon Conditions Report
Cascade Falls Emerald Bay:
It's in; it's fat. 20 minute approach, dirt trail. Anchors on a tree at the top. 60 M. Route. Many options WI 2 and 3.
Photo: Annie P.
Dec 24th 2011- Rainbow is in. It is located on hwy 80 between the Rainbow and Cisco Grove exits. Follow the frontage road from either exit. Sorry no pics. WI 3 plus. Trail to base of ice starts behind the forest service bldg which is on the eastside of the road across from the forest service trailhead parking lot. (sign says Lincoln highway).
We are very pleased to add a new feature to the site. If you click on View Topo, in the Lee Vining Canyon section you will find a link to Brian Biega's excellent site (About My Adventure) and route lines will be shown. If you hover over the route name the route and rating will appear. VERY COOL. Thanks Brian!
North Pole Ice
Current Weather
11/25/11- 
